As I always tell people villages are not created equal and they all have their own character. No two villages are alike! Village life can be harsh on so many levels: socially, economically, living standards, abuse, and neglect. I would say all the issues that exist everywhere else are present in the villages and magnified due to the remoteness and lower populations. Issues and concerns are more present, in your face and unavoidable. The best advice I was given years ago before coming out to Unalakleet to work was from an Alaska State Trooper who worked in Anchorage but had spent time in the villages. This trooper said "No matter what you do only work in villages that have a state trooper housed in the village." Now years later looking back on this statement I know the value of it and the importance of his advice!
Now, let's go on a trip north to Elim! I left Unalakleet as the only passenger on a Bering Air flight north. We first landed in Koyuk which I have been going to for years for ski/biathlon races. Koyuk like Elim are sites I have never seen without snow!
Often these flights are called "milk flights" or "mail flights." Long ago they may have been carrying milk but in today's world, these planes are carrying a healthy amount of junk food! Here I sit with 1,500 pounds of crap food. Soda, boxes of chips, Pringles, no real food! The diet in the villages is really pretty bleak. Traditional Native food is healthy, but the modern diet is wreaking havoc on this population! Junk food is often far less expensive than fresh produce if veggies and fruits are even available in the local village stores. Most of the villages have health clinics with health aides. They also have traveling PAs, and other health support. Many of the villages and corporations have healthy living education and activities/events throughout the year. It is a challenge for sure as food options are limited in these rural areas.


I was flying in late September and fall was well on its way out. Below you can see the palest color on the tundra is the lichen, black spruce (green), and the willows are yellow.
The photo below I am always amazed at the amount of water on the tundra! Thus the wonderful amount of BUGS! It is easy to see why the birds fly this route for migration. Always water, berries, and greens to snack on as they head north or south. The Iditarod trail passes over all of this as they head into the village of Koyuk.
Fall colors coming into Koyuk to land a bit blurry but you get the idea! In the winter one often sees moose trudging through the deep wind-blown snow.

Once on the ground the air agent and others arrive for the air freight on the plane. There may be medical supplies or blood work heading up to Nome, paperwork, school supplies, building materials--you name it all kinds of things are moved this way from village to village.

Then we were off to Elim and ski gear galore! All of the ski gear was hauled inside to one location and organized for fitting the kids. This takes a lot of time to orchestrate. Some gear has to be tossed out as it is either not functioning or just too old. Like I say, "Would you let a kid play basketball in a pair of shoes from the 1980s that has been used every single year since! NOPE!" Sometimes the best thing to do is to get rid of the old and order up some replacement ski gear! Elim sits in a pretty spot with trees, hills, ocean and with those trees are BUGS! UGH! They were also working on the roads there to have them ready to be paved next summer. It was a busy place this fall!
Birds migrating south and I am guessing these are either swans or geese. From above they seemed to be flying so fast it was an impressive site! I am flying north and the peak in this photos is known as Little McKinley or Little Denali on the Iditarod trail.
Next, I was off to the village of Golovin, which I really enjoyed! It sits out on a spit of land in a stunning location. Golovin is no longer an official checkpoint on the Iditarod trail but the mushers pass by here on their way to White Mountain.
Here is the ski room a rather unassuming shed. Once inside there is a fairly good selection of skis, a poor selection of ski boots, poles, biathlon targets, wax benches, and older "ski stuff." Golovin like Elim over the years have produced some strong cross-country skiers. Programs morph due to coaches coming and going. Skiing has been going on in this school district for over 40 years with some rather impressive results.
I organized the ski room and left notes on the skis to telling the new coach what skis are best for what type of skiers. We fitted kids to ski boots and sized them for skis, and poles.
Saying goodbye to Golovin. This gives you an idea of the space and remoteness of all the villages. The new and improved runway was completed in September which you can see up above the village. There is an older smaller runway to the right of the village you may be able to notice looking at the photo.
Flying home to Unalakleet. The expanse of land out here is always impressive . . . just open space for as far as your eye can see! This is Unalakleet below and the Unalakleet River. In the background are the Nulato Hills.
Next on my travels were the two villages southwest of Unalakleet. Stebbins and St. Michael's. Below is a great storage system that is set up at the Stebbins school a narrow space made into a great ski closet. Gear is inside and heated, behind locked doors!
St Michael's school above with the red roof. This school has amazing artwork! I was totally blown away by the variety of art displayed in this school.
Beluga whale wall mural with clear details. The border adds the hunting component which is nicely done with traditional elements.
St. Michael's has a strong drumming and dancing heritage and these are a variety of student made drums.
Skis, boots, and poles! Equipment here is stored in a con-x outside. Once organized it was clear to see that St, Michael's is in direr need of new ski boots!
Another thing St. Michael's is famous for is their sea glass. I picked this glass up in a matter of minutes while walking on their beach. AMAZING!
This is a kayak that was built under the guidance of Maligiag Padilla. He is a Greenlander and was working in our school district building a variety of boats over a few years. Amazing work!
St. Michael's also had all this wonderful metal art showing the wide variety of migratory birds that come through their region.

At this angle, it looks like that Beluga is saying goodbye!
Below is a nice look at St. Michael's as I head home. The village is spread out and which makes it feel larger. In the far horizon, west is where the village of Stebbins is located.
My ride awaits at the airport to take me home. My husband drove our 4-wheeler over and left it for the big ride home about 200 yards! Nice not to have to haul luggage across over a dirt road!



























2 comments:
The art in the last school was really wonderful. And the vistas from the airplane, showing how different village life must be from a bedroom community to a big city. Amazing.
Wonderful post giving a very clear view of you new life in "retirement". Is it living up to expectations?
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